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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Saturday, October 14, 2017

Vogue 1562--a new winter coat!

The minute I saw this red wool melton on Fabric Mart's site, I knew I had to make another winter coat.  It's only October, but with cold weather rapidly approaching, the sooner I started making this, the better.

Last year, I used a mustardy colored wool melton to make a duffle-type coat, and it was so wonderful to sew with that I went for the same type of fabric for this make.  There is still some of this candy-apple red wool available and some other colors as well on Fabric Mart's site if you are interested.


Look at those details!  Three welt pockets, bound button holes, a felt under collar, fully lined, gorgeous collar and lapels.  Can you tell I love this?  It is a Lialia by Vogue.  Directions are for advanced sewers and I totally agree.  This pattern is for an experienced sewer.  If you are a newbie, practice before tackling this.


I was a tad bit worried: this coat has six bound button holes and with the thickness of this fabric, I wondered how they'd turn out.  I practiced several and found they worked perfectly with this fabric.  Just take your time and sew carefully and you'll get a good result.


What good is a winter coat with a boring lining?  I want to liven up my winter and choose this dark brown, polka-dot fabric by Maggy London.  It is sold out now, but I believe it was a silk blend.  It was really nice to cut out and sew together.


Don't be afraid of using a heavier weight wool for your winter outerwear.  My Viking has zero issues sewing this.

I made my own shoulder pads, sewed the lining in by hand, hand hemmed the coat, so this truly was a labor of love.  I love how tailored it is compared to anything else I own.


There are a few things to be aware of when sewing this coat.
1.  Pay attention to the seam allowances listed on the pattern pieces.  The differences are not mentioned in the directions
2.  Not all the markings are present on the under collar
3.  Understitching the collar and lapel isn't mentioned but I did it as my fabric is rather thick and in all honesty, it is a step that shouldn't be skipped.
4.  Almost all pieces of the coat shell are interfaced with fusible interfacing.  If I make this again, and I might, I would use sew-in interfacing, probably hymo.
5.  I would add lower-hem facings instead of turning and hemming as I believe it would add to the lower hem lying nicer.
6.  I would pad-stitch the under collar to give it more shape.
7.   To give the shoulders and upper sleeve a bit more stability, I cut two pieces of hymo on the bias.  The shape followed the sleeve cap and continued from the shoulder seam to the notches for the front and back sleeve.
8.  I attached the lining by hand and am glad I did as it lays beautifully!
9.  I relied on an outside resource for my bound buttonholes.  The instructions are fine, I just wanted a few more details.  If you are experienced with these, you won't have any trouble.  Just make sure you measure your button hole width before you sew your garment.  My buttons are leather and quite a bit thicker than the pattern tissue indicates.

I typically make a FBA, sloping shoulder, and swayback adjustments.  I made all those but still needed to add shoulder pads.  I made those myself and covered them with the lining fabric before inserting into the shoulder area.   

Although I am not ready for winter, I am glad to know that I have a new coat hanging in my closet ready to tackle the cold weather!

Thanks for reading!

Sue from Ilove2sew!  A few parting shots of playing in the leaves!

Tuesday, October 10, 2017

The Terry Tie Cardi

I really need to stop buying so many patterns.  I literally forget which ones I purchase at times.  I rediscovered this one recently and decided it was time to create it.  Luckily I had just the right fabric for it.  :).  This is the Terry Tie cardigan from StyleArc. 

Terry Tie Cardi Sewing Pattern By Style Arc - Knit tie front cardigan with tucked shoulder detail

Such a simple design deserves a lovely and drapey fabric and the one I used, I think, is just right!

This is a Telio knit from Fabric.com.  It feels like silk on your skin!

I love how this fits, rather fitting in the back but flowing in the front.

Sorry that photo is a bit of blurry.  I am not sure what my fashion photographer was doing.

You can see some of the details at the shoulder.  The pattern calls for tucks, but I changed that to gathers.  I think I like it better than the design.

Yes, my eyes are closed.  I typically have several photos with my eyes closed.  


I really love how the ties are long and are attached to the front with darts.  The provide cinching at the waist and shape!

Close up of the shoulder area.  You can also see the stretch stitch I used to hem the front, sleeves, and lower edge.

I really love this pattern and my fabric choice!
Thanks for reading!

Sunday, October 1, 2017

Dressing for fall! McCalls 7561

I so love the change of seasons, especially from summer to fall.  The days are still somewhat warm and the nights cool.  There is a crispness in the air that is delightful! 

Anyway, back to why you are here!  Falls sewing and a knit dress that feels like silk on your skin.  This fabric is from Telio and I purchased it from fabric.com.  It literally feels like silk!  It washes and dries beautifully and was wonderful to sew!  I told myself, no more fabric, you don't need it, you really don't, but when I saw this print, all my self-control melted away and I found myself purchasing about 10 more yards of fabric. 
Image result for images McCalls 7561

I used this pattern from McCall's: 7561.  It is so easy to put together.  Literally, I completed this dress during one and a half episodes of Fixer Upper today.  Sometimes we all need an instant gratification project like that! 

 I lengthened this dress from the above knee-length version.  I also added a neck-band. 

With super-stretchy knits like this, I know I need more of a swayback adjustment, but I always forget to make one.  Maybe sometime I will learn!

The fullness of the skirt doesn't look all that full when compared to the pattern picture.  It think their skirt is much more full looking.  I actually and happy with the amount of fullness.

Action shots!  

I can't tell you how much I love this dress!  

As you can see, I added a neckband, stretching it to fit.  Next I top-stitched with a triple stretch-stitch.  

For the hems, I used Seweyekeys fusible knit tape in 1/2" width for the sleeves and 1" for the lower hem.  
I really love this pattern.  It has so many possibilities!

Thanks for reading!

Monday, September 25, 2017

Finally, A Win! Vogue 9270

This pattern....let me share my redemption story of this pattern...


Vogue, 9270...you've saved me.  I had several waders in a row and thank goodness you've brought be back from the brink of despair.  OK, so I am being overly dramatic, but sometimes I do feel like my sewing endeavors are telling me something...stick with it; you've got this; stop doing this, it never works out; don't ever do that again; etc.,

This is a great pattern!  The drafting is spot-on.  The styling is super cute.  It fits great, if not slightly a bit large so you can adapt it down and I love the length.

Let me back up a bit however.  This is made for wovens and I used a stretch, burnout velvet.  Perhaps with a woven it would fit closer.

The length is super fun--perfect for an almost tunic.  Lengthening this a bit to wear with leggings would be very, very easy.  Also, if you use a knit or perhaps a stretch woven, you may not have to use a zipper.

Sorry this is a bit blurry.  My fashion photographer was a bit impatient as we hadn't had dinner yet.  :)  So catching me mid-turn was to be expected.  At least you get a vague idea of the seaming on the sleeve.  I had purchased lace trim to attach but didn't like the contrast of the antique lace with the busy print I choose.  I hope to use that trim for something in the future.  

This was super fun to create!  I hope you'll try velvet in the future.  I purchased this from fabric.com and love everything about it!

Thanks for reading!
Sue :)  

Sunday, September 10, 2017

I think I made a grandmother of the bride/groom dress....

I really had some high hopes for this dress pattern.  It has received rave reviews from SPR and so I thought I'd give it a shot.  This is the Barcelona dress by Loes Hines.  It was available through Textile Studios.

Image result for images of textile studio barcelona dress

The shape is very simple, almost so simple it becomes just about sack-like.  But, I thought I'd try it anyway as sometimes simple shapes are best to highlight a pretty fabric.

I really loved this fabric from JoAnns.  It is 100% poly and as light and flowy as a breeze.

It washed and dried beautifully.  When you are close-up, it has some places that have a metallic sheen.  This is almost impossible to capture in a photo.

Even though I tissue-fit this, it is still difficult to get a flattering fit all around.  That swayback...

I made an FBA, sloping shoulder, and swayback adjustment.  I am still not happy with the fit. 

The skirt is rather full and fun.

This photo captures how I feel about it.  Meh.  I won't wear it.  I feel like I look like an 80-plus old woman, ready for a wedding or a funeral.  I will however recycle this fabric into something else.  

Thanks for reading...
Two wadders in a row...
Do you ever feel like throwing in the towel?
Sue :)

Friday, September 1, 2017

Butterick 6495

I've had great luck with the Butterick lifestyle wardrobe patterns and this one seems to be no exception.

Image result for Images butterick 6495

I purchased this for the neckline on the top and dress.  Can you blame me?  It's so cute! 

My fabric is a gorgeous Stof knit I purchased in Baton Rouge, Louisiana while visiting DD1 and granddaughter 1.  Yes, I was also visiting the Son-in-law and need to mention him as he is a great guy.   

You can see the subtle stripe in the knit.  Gray and yellow.  Love these colors together!  

I made my usual alterations for a swayback adjustment and FBA.  I really didn't think I'd need the sloping shoulder adjustment and I was right, I didn't make it this time.  

This top is super easy to sew.  Had I had enough fabric, this would have been a dress.  The back of the pattern envelope tells you that 1 5/8 yard will get you a dress.  I had almost that much and there was no way it would work.  I would have a bit more fabric on hand that what the pattern calls for.  

Isn't that neckline just cute?  It is also modest and work appropriate.  Bonus--no bra strap showing!  

I love how this fits and looks with my simple gray pants I also made.  I see more makes using this pattern! 

Some of you have asked with stitch I use on my hems and here it is!  Number 19 or a honeycomb stitch.  It looks just like my coverstitch only doesn't misbehave.  I prefer this method over a coverstitch machine any day of the week.  

Thanks for reading!