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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Saturday, June 16, 2012

Butterick Suzi Chin Dress

This pattern is a Butterick designer pattern by Suzi Chin. I fell in love with the drapey neck, the shirred waist, and the pleats at the skirt. It is rated as Average and is described as this on the back of the envelope:
Partially lined dress has bias front pleated bodice, bias midriff, slightly shaped front hemline, invisible side zipper and narrow hem. Here is where you can see a picture of the pattern envelope.
Suzi Chin Pattern




I used a wonderful designer knit I purchased from a fabric store in New Orleans when I was there for a conference last December. At that time, I weighed almost 20 more pounds than I do now, so I set it aside waiting for the perfect pattern and until I shed a few pounds!
Well, I finally am down two pattern sizes and sewed this up in a 16. I feel like the waist is still a little snug, but with summer coming up and my passion for running and riding my bike, I am hoping to knock another inch off my waist. :) Plus wearing a cotton cami under a knit dress isn’t such a great idea. I was too lazy to remove it for the pictures.

So here is what I did with the pattern, some things worked, and some didn’t! Please don’t make my mistakes!!!

The pattern calls for a two-way stretch knit and that is what I used. So, in what I thought was a stroke of brilliance, I thought I could line the bodice with a woven. Wow was I having a brain-fart. What was I thinking? Lining a knit with a woven? Someone slap me upside the head next time I think something that ridiculous would work. That little mistake cost me many hours of deconstructing the entire thing and staring over. Since I thought I was being so incredibly smart and used the woven, I didn’t even bother to purchase the Tricot for the lining. After my hour or two of deconstruction, I searched all over Sioux Falls and couldn’t find any Tricot in stock anywhere, so I headed up to my lingerie drawer and found two discarded slips. Slips? Really? Does anyone wear those anymore that is under the age of 75? Oops! I hope my mother in law isn’t reading this, she tends to buy everyone slips when she notices us girls aren’t wearing one!
So, I cut those slips apart to match the pattern pieces, restitched the entire thing, put the invisible zipper back in and viola! I have a completed dress!

The dress is a little shorter than I would normally have liked it, but my husband thinks I now have the legs for it, so I won’t do anything about it. Not that I could, I don’t have enough fabric to recut the skirt and since I purchased it five months ago halfway across the country, I am out of luck.

What did I like or dislike?
Putting in the invisible zipper with all the shirring was tortureous to say the least and after one try I ended up hand basting it so all the seams lined up.
I lifted the neckline that is under the drape by 1.5 inches and feel it is still too low. I am wearing a cami underneath and you can see it.
I love the draping and skirt lines. The side zip makes the back fit well.
I made my usual erect back/sway back adjustment of lowering the back neckline by 1/2 inch.
I wish my slips had been ivory instead of white, but you can’t see the lining at all, so that is a bonus.
If you read any of my other reviews regarding knit fabrics, you would know that unfinished edges drive me batty so even though I didn’t need to do this extra step, I did: I turned under the edge of the facing and edge stitched it with two rows of stitching. I love how polished it looks.
Also on the bodice front, the neck edge is simply rolled to the inside, again, unfinished. Well, guess what I did with that? Yep, you got it, I finished that edge with my serger, turned it under and topstitched it.
I will warn you there is quite a bit of hand sewing the lining to the bodice. I like hand stitching, in moderation that is, so it didn’t bother me.

All in all, I think this dress is worth stitching up. Please make a muslin. I wish I would have!
Have fun with this one.
Oh, and please forgive the rather poor quality of the pictures. I tried something new with my camera and it didn’t work out how I wanted it to!
Happy sewing!
Sue

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