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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Vogue 1210 Sandra Betzina

Vogue 1210 Sandra Betzina dress is a new favorite of mine if you want something a little different.

Here is a description from the back of the envelope: Loose-fitting, pullover dresses A, B, below mid-calf at center front, have slightly cut-in armholes, self fabric or contrast 'V' neckband, sleeve inset and times, angled hemline. 

The only notion you need is stay tape. 

The line drawing shows the details more clearly.
Line Art

This pattern is rated easy, and I agree!  A beginner could put this together with good results. 
There are only 16 steps to this pattern.  When I first opened the package, I couldn't figure out where the direction page was mostly because it was just one page (front and back) and that is it!  Typically with Vogue you get many pages with many steps! 

So my fabric choice was once again from the red tag clearance bin at Joanns.  I pre-washed and threw this colorful sweater knit in the dryer prior to cutting.  It washed beautifully and this dress cost less than $15!  For the inset, I had the denim looking knit in my stash.  I have no idea why I originally purchased it, but I do like it a lot. 

I made view A with the contrast on the V neck and the sleeve inset.  After reading several reviews on sewing pattern reviews, I decided against the tie.  It wraps under the girls around to the back.  I don't see any reason to emphasize mine as they are plenty big enough anyway so I just left the time off and plan on wearing a belt.  You can see in the model's photo that with the ties wrapping around to the back, it provides quite a bit of shaping to the back. 

I am rather tall (5'7") and I did lengthen the sleeves about 1 inch.  I am glad I did as I feel they are just the right length. 

I did use the stay tape as instructed.  I followed the instructions to a T for inserting the V-neckband and had to unsew twice.  I am still not completely satisfied with it, but it looks fine.  If you look in one of the photos, it is very slightly gaping.  It was really gaping the first two times I inserted the neckband and it is so much better, but I truly strive for perfection and didn't feel I made it to that sacred point. 

I plan on wearing this to work and feel the neckline is a tad low, it seems to stay put when you move in the dress but for extra insurance, I plan on wearing a cami underneath. 

One thing in the pattern directions that sort of bugs me is in step 7 where Sandra states that if the V on the front is not perfect, don't worry about it since it can be covered by the tie.  So I just have to wonder, did she have trouble as well? 

I cut a size D and think it fits pretty darn well.  I wouldn't want it any looser nor any snugger. 
The only pattern modifications I made was to top stitch along the sleeve insert on both sides.  I also added a decorative stitch to the hemline on the sleeves and lower hem. 

As usual, I made a 1/2 inch sway-back adjustment using a wedge at the waistline and tapering to nothing at the side seams. 

Will I make this again?  Maybe.  It is pretty distinct but wouldn't it be cute with short sleeves in a summery print for warm weather? 

Conclusion: make sure your fabric has some drape.  It won't look or lay right if it is stiff at all.  Test the neckline to see if you are okay with the depth.  I knew it would be low, but knew I had just the right color cami to wear underneath.  Sandra's patterns do run a little large, especially in the waist and hip area, so check your measurements against her sizing options.

Have fun with this dress! 

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Vogue 8795

Here is my latest creation, a cute little Marcy Tilton jacket. 

The pattern envelope describes the jacket like this: Semi-fitted, unlined jackets, A, B, C have collar, left front extending into drape and stitched hems.  A: purchased decorative hook and eye tape for closing.  A, C, Right front and right collar edges may be cut on the selvage, wrong side of fabric shows on the drape.  B, C: Purchased decorative zipper. 
This pattern is listed as easy and for moderate stretch knits only.  Sweater knits is listed as a recommended fabric and that is the main reason I choose this pattern. 

I found this lightweight sweater knit in the red tag clearance bin at Joanns.  I am really into knits and purple lately, so I had to have it.  This is my wearable muslin.  I had the purple separating zipper in my stash and was happy it was the right color of purple!  I shrunk the sweater knit by washing it and drying it prior to cutting out.  Now that I have done that, this finished garment will receive a cold water wash and air drying. 

Alterations I made to the garment was only my usual 1/2 inch swayback adjustment.  The directions call for 1 inch wide interfacing the length of the shoulder seam to stabilize.  I prefer using 1/4 to 3/8 inch clear elastic sewn into the shoulder seam.  Ready to wear is usually finished off with elastic and I think it is easier than ironing in interfacing.

I cut a 14 and knew it would be boxy.  I am thinking it is just a little too boxy since it stands away from my waist area.  See what I mean:  
I am sure it doesn't help the way I have my arms back and my hands in my pockets! 

Instructions are well-written and easy to follow.  Depending on your fabric, do take the extra few minutes to hand baste the zipper.  I had not previously sewn on a sweater knit and this proved very helpful to get it to lie smoothly.  The first two times I tried to sew the zipper in, I didn't baste and it took me longer than necessary to get a good final finish. 

A modification I made was to hand baste purple seam binding on the left inside of the jacket, just opposite of where the zipper is sewn in.  March has you construct a facing, however I just didn't like how it lied with the knit I used.  I trimmed that facing close to the seaming for the zipper and then simply inserted the bias tape.  I do like the extra punch of purple it gives. 

I also used narrow strips of fusible interfacing that I ironed to the hems prior to stitching.  That little extra step helped the hemming to be completed easily and quickly. 

I will most likely make this again.  The exposed zipper is a fun touch.  I think it would work in a lightweight stretch woven in a fun color.  If I can find hook and eye tape, I would like to try that as well! 

Have fun with this one!