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Sewing is therapy for me. I hoard fabric, patterns, notions, and spend more time shopping for fabric than I care to admit...

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Vogue 8904

This pattern was a best of 2013 and I finally got around to putting it together.  Now I know what all the hype was about.  I mean it is easy, it is fast, and it hides a multitude of 'situations' you don't want others to know about with the tiers or shingles that are sewn in place.

Pattern Description:
Misses' Dress: Close-fitting, pullover dress has self-neck binding, tiers, and raw edge finish.  A: Sleeves.  B: Self-armhole binding. 

I used a gray/orangy-red knit from MT.  It was on sale for $7 a yard and since this pattern is a fabric pig, it still cost me less that $30 to sew the entire thing.  And, I have enough scraps left to make my little grandson a shirt or pants (or maybe even both)!  So with that said, I am sure this dress was almost free, right?  Make sure you test the stretch of your fabric, it is very important it has both enough length-wise and cross-wise stretch to get over you head and hug your curves.  Without the proper stretch, this dress won't go past your shoulders.

1.  I love the body-hugging style of the dress.  Being 51 years old, I normally shy away from dresses such as this, but with the tiers, it is most forgiving.
2.  I love the tiers, they add a fun element to the dress and make use of the fabric's print that you choose.
3. I do like the length of View B that I choose, I added the sleeves from A to it.
1.  RAW edges.  Ugh.  I just can't jump on the bandwagon and embrace these with enthusiasm or even consideration.
2.  A few of the construction methods weren't my favorites so I changed them.  More on that later.

1.  My usual 1/2" sway back adjustment.

Here is where I differed and I am sure other reviewers did some of these things as well.
1.  Set in sleeves on a knit?  Nope.  They worked great sewing them in flat and then stitching the underarm seam in one swoop.
2.  I sewed both shoulder seams before attaching the neckband.
3.  I used a deeper stitch on the neckline band (about 3/4").  I stitched the ends of the neckline, folded in half, and pressed.  Next I attached it to the neckline with my serger.  The directions have you stitch only one side of the neckband, turn it to the inside, stitch and then cut the excess away.  I just don't think that looks as professional as it could.
4.  Instead of stitching in the ditch on the neckband, I stitched just a tick or two away from the band on the dress side by using a stretch stitch.
5.  No raw edges for me!  I used my coverstitch machine to finish the hems of all the tiers.  It took me about 20 extra minutes to do this and I like how clean-finished all my tiers look.
6.  I also hemmed the dress and sleeve seams with the coverstitch.

Yes, I do recommend this dress.  It is a little different, goes together quickly and is fun.  DH thinks it adds some unnecessary girth to my midsection, but I honestly don't feel like it does.  Maybe after wearing it a few times, I'll change my mind.  Oh, and just a note on sizing, I cut a larger size through the shoulders (18) because I didn't want the armholes to cut into my chest/shoulders.  Everywhere else, I cut a 14.

Have fun with this dress.  I may have to make one again in a solid that is sleeveless for summer.

Thanks for reading!

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Jalie 3245


Here's my review for Jalie 3245.  I love the raglan sleeves!  Also, this pattern is pretty versatile, but more on that later.

Here is the description:
A: Raglan top with curved hem, half sleeve and binded neckline.  B: raglan tunic with curved hem, half sleeve, patch pockets, and binded neckline.  C: racerback top with curved hem, binded neckline and armhole.  D: racerback tunic with curved hem, patch pockets binded neckline and armhole. 
This pattern comes in sizes from 12 months to size 22 womens.  I made an 11 or X based on my full-bust measurement.

I made view B, but with my busy print, you can't really see the patch pockets all that well.

Fabric used: this very bright and perky knit with lycra.  It was from my stash and it has some orange in it.  I don't remember where I purchased it, but since today was the most spring like day we've had thus far, I had to pull it out and use it!

What I like/dislike:
Since when did Jalie start putting multicolored lines on the pattern so you can easily select and cut out your size?  Winner, winner, chicken dinner!  Love this feature.  I mean I loved Jalie for knits before, but now my love has grown tremendously!

This is a very simple garment to sew.  The notches and such all line up.  This pattern has 1/4" seam allowance, so pay attention as you sew or you'll end up with a much smaller garment that you had intended.
I like the little patch pockets, they make the top slightly dresser than if they didn't have them.
I like the versatility of this pattern.  It would like very cute in a variety of fabrics.
I like the shaped hemline.  It adds a little something.


I didn't read them.  I looked over the visuals and they were more than adequate.  If you've made a raglan sleeved top before, you'll do just fine.  Jalie's directions are notoriously succinct, so don't expect a lot of unnecessary verbiage if you do decide to read the instructions. 

I made my usual 1/2" swayback adjustment.
My neckline binding is slightly narrower due to being distracted while I was applying it.
The tunic is also about 5/8" shorter due again to my ADD kicking in while I was cutting it out.  It is plenty long enough for a tunic, but I prefer them about an inch longer than this one is, just to make sure all is covered.

Recommendations: I will be using this pattern quite a bit.  It is a classic and with the variety of fabrics you can use and make it sleeveless or not, this is an instant favorite for me!
Jalie just doesn't disappoint!

Thanks for reading!